Issue 7: France Follow-ups
Essentials, Bread and Rothko.
Learning to Eat Update
North Americans often return from Europe eager to adopt European customs such as walking more and working less, but life usually gets in the way and eventually we revert back to old habits. So I’m pleasantly surprised that the eating habits I adopted while living in France for a month (outlined in Issue 6: How I Learned to Eat) have stuck. Since my return I’ve lost a few more pounds, grocery shop more strategically, and enjoy meals based around food I love.
What am I eating? Toasted sourdough bread topped with my fave trio of cheese, tomatoes and basil (more on this combo below), or brown rice pasta with arugula, walnuts and pecorino, or fish en papillote with rice and salad. Everything drizzled with good olive oil and seasoned with Himalayan sea salt and coarse black pepper. This is what I want to eat right now and it makes me happy, so I’m sticking with it.
They say you end up eating roughly the same 10 things for the most part, and if so, perhaps I’ve found my list:
Sourdough bread (fresh from a bakery, no commercial additives)
Cheese (good quality, imported)
Pasta (brown rice or fresh), rice, potatoes
Greens and vegetables
Fish, a little meat (good quality)
Olive oil, butter, cream (good quality)
Plain yogurt
Bananas
Nuts, seeds, granola (homemade recipe below)
Coffee, tea, water, wine
It’s an interesting exercise to take stock of your favourite food which can help focus meal-planning and shopping. Why not hone in on what you love, find the best of it and enjoy every meal?
A Perfect Meal
My idea of a perfect meal is actually quite simple; the freshest bread/baguette with the creamiest Brie, the ripest tomatoes and the freshest basil, drizzled with olive oil and sea salt. This favourite combination began back in 1995 when I was in the Cinque Terre region of Italy. I stopped into a deli in the tiny fisherman’s village of Vernazza, ordered a Caprese panini at the counter, took the foil wrapped sandwich to the edge of the sea, and ate the most incredible thing I’d ever had in my life. Fresh, creamy buffalo mozzarella, juicy sliced tomato, pesto for bite and perfectly crusty bread. It was heaven, and I continue to make variations of this memorable combination to this day.
Searching for Sourdough
My ongoing search for the best local sourdough continues, with some great discoveries...
Part of the Terroni conglomerate, Forno Cultura is a local bakery in Toronto serving made-to-order paninis, rustic desserts and freshly baked bread made by third generation Italian bakers. Natural, quality ingredients and traditional Italian recipes reign supreme here. The sourdough ‘Filone’ loaf is excellent, the inside super fluffy with the right amount of chewiness, and a crunchy, dark crust. Available plain or seeded and whole (make sure you have a good bread knife).
When I lived in the Leaside area of Toronto, I couldn’t have been happier when the French bakery BoMou opened on Bayview. The local owner and pastry chef, Negar Sabzevari, is a lifelong baker who studied in Paris and Toronto, perfecting her recipes to rival the best patisseries in Paris and bring joy to her local customers. Known for the insanely buttery croissants (using French butter!), BoMou’s sourdough (available sliced) remains at the top of my list, I never visit Toronto without bringing home a loaf or two.
A new discovery in London, Ont.’s Covent Garden Market, Pastry Culture offers French pastries and baked-goods made fresh daily using quality ingredients. They offer regional favourites like rum and custard-infused Canelé, and all types of galettes and tarts. The sourdough loaf is solid, and since they are opening a second location in my neighbourhood next year, it may just become my go-to.
Homemade Granola
I’m not a breakfast person, but mid-morning I’ve been having plain yogurt with this homemade granola and fruit. The recipe has sea salt and maple syrup which balances the tartness of the yogurt well, but you can also add a few drops of extra honey or syrup on top. Adjust ingredients and portions to your taste.
2 cups brown rice puffs (or rolled oats or quinoa flakes)
1/4 cup buckwheat groats
1/4 cup chopped walnuts (or pecans)
1 tbsp ground flax seeds
1 tbsp hemp seeds
1/4 cup melted butter (or coconut oil)
2 tbsp good quality maple syrup
Dash cinnamon or spices of your choice
1 tsp coarse sea salt
Combine all ingredients in a large bowl, lay flat on baking sheet and bake in preheated 275 degree oven for 30 min, cool and store in glass jar for a week.
Rothko Exposition, Paris
For art lovers lucky enough to be in or near Paris in the next six months, the Rothko retrospective at the Louis Vuitton Foundation looks to be a must-see. I’ll never forget visiting the ‘Rothko Room’ at the Tate Modern in London years ago, and being surrounded by the famous abstract colour block paintings on every wall. My friend and I were stunned at how moving it was, and I recall we both stared around the room quietly for a very long time. Rothko’s ability to elicit emotion through colour and shape is pure creative genius. I have a few Rothko ‘replicas’ around the house, and if I could I’d have a ‘Rothko room’ of my own.
It was disappointing to miss this exhibit by a few weeks, as I also want to tour the spectacular museum, designed by Toronto-born Frank Gehry, which houses the private collection of LVMH CEO, Bernard Arnault, among other works. I also want to spend time in the beautiful Bois de Boulogne public park in the 16th arrondissement, where the Fondation is located. A perfect day in Paris awaits!
Essentials for Long-Term Stays
Since returning from France, I’ve rounded up a few essentials that made the month great, rated travel hacks from Issue 4: Bon Voyage, and reflected on what I’ll do differently next time.
Coffee: I was aware ahead of time that there was a French Press, however airbnb’s often have Nespresso machines which I’m not a fan of. If coffee is important to you, make sure you’re aware of the coffee situation and be prepared to bring or purchase your own Bodum or espresso maker. A month without good coffee is not an option.
Lounging: Lesson learned from Provence 2022, loungewear is imperative. If you’re staying in the French countryside or a small town you’ll spend most evenings in, cooking dinner and watching movies. I brought a few pairs of leggings, comfortable tops and pillow slides for inside shoes.
Shops & Essentials: It was helpful to have pinned nearby shops and resources on my Google Maps ahead of time so that I knew what resources were close by. The French department store Monoprix is good for clothes, the pharmacies (identified with a glowing green cross) have medication and skincare, and Maxi Zoo is a chain of pet stores that are all over France. I also marked the closest gas station, hospital and ATM.
Sneakers: Of the four pairs of sneakers I brought to France, these platform ones from Italian brand Superga were surprisingly the most comfortable. I don’t know what the secret is, but they are so comfortable for trekking around town and also look great with everything from long dresses to jeans. I’ll be getting another colour or two.
Luggage: In need of a luggage overhaul. Seeking a medium, 4-wheel, hard-cover style suitcase for my checked bag next time as the large, half-full, bulky suitcase was brutally heavy. My carry-on tote was also too heavy with the laptop which made navigating it and the dog carrier very challenging. A new luggage strategy is definitely required.
Tech: It’s handy to have an adaptor with multiple plug formats and create a charging area in one place, next time I’ll bring 2 as well as 2 x phone chargers - one for home and one for the car. The AirTag was reassuring and useful for other purposes once there. Using an eSIM digital phone plan for a long stay is highly recommended. That said, ensure you install it correctly (I did), and ensure you change your phone settings properly (I did NOT). Suffice to say, these are great and will save you hundreds of dollars in roaming…as long as you set it up properly.
Traveling with Pets: As requested, I’ve outlined the process traveling with my dog from Canada/France/Canada, which can be found under My France Journey here.
Labadie Loves
Matthew Perry’s Chandler Bing was my favourite of the male characters on Friends. Funny, cute, preppy and into hockey (a nod to the actor’s Canadian roots), he was the perfect 90’s guy. Chandler could easily have been a one-note jokester, but Perry brought vulnerability to the role that led to some of the most tender and emotional moments on the show. Who can forget the proposal episode or every time Joey and Chandler hugged it out? One of my favourite Chandler episodes is Season 9, Episode 6 ‘The One with the Male Nanny’, when Monica tells him she’s met someone at work who’s the funniest guy she’s ever met. This episode always felt very autobiographical, as Perry admittedly needed to get the biggest laughs. He also looks great in this episode, healthy and happy. A super sad loss.
Coming Up
British Women + French Men
Fall Fashion Picks
Holiday Gift Guide
Living vicariously through your wonderful experiences and learning from your insights! Great read yet again!
Another great issue! My sis and I were in Cinque Terre in 2018 and know exactly what you mean about the paninis. Not sure if you have tried Churis Bakery on Adelaide at Victoria. They have quite a few sourdoughs. Worth checking out. Thx always for your informative pieces.